![calibrate plustek scanner calibrate plustek scanner](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/KKgAAOSwHUdfeWLc/s-l300.jpg)
Because it is possible to do a reasonable workflow with a Plustek and because I think that the Plustek produces better quality than any of the flatbeds, I'd give the nod to a Plustek. If you don't, then I'd recommend either one of the Plusteks, or one of the flatbed scanners. I'm going to briefly say that I've moved on to using a camera scanning technique but I'd only recommend that if you already have a DSLR/mirrorless + good macro lens. From there on out, I was editing at the same time as the scanner was scanning. So I only end up twiddling my thumbs when the first frame was being scanned. So I started the scanner on the 3rd frame while I edited the 2nd frame. I usually worked it so I was done editing the image at the same time as the scanner was done scanning the 2nd image. And touching up color correction and cloning out glitches. While the 7600i was scanning the second frame, I loaded the image from the first frame in Photoshop for straightening and cropping. However.when I was using my 7600i, I worked out a workflow where I scanned the first frame (and twiddled my thumbs for the two or three minutes it took). Many people spring for the V700 because they can set it and start the scan and go away and do something else for the 1/2 hour, or so, that it takes to scan 12 frames. One strip/four frames (for the cheaper flatbeds, like the Epson V600) or four strips/12 frames (for the more expensive Epson V700). But with flatbed scanners you can set it up to sequentially scan all the frames that are on the negative strip. About three minutes per frame with IR noise reduction.įlatbed scanners don't deliver images that are quite as detailed as the Plustek scanners can deliver. When scanning at 3600 PPI (to yield a scanned image with 8-10 megapixels of data), it takes about two minutes per frame without IR noise reduction. Meaning that you need to advance the film carrier for each frame. With all this said, you should also know that the workflow with the Plustek scanners can be oppressive. The Nikon scanners are better but they cost $$$$ (even used) and I am pretty sure that Chris is correct that Nikon no longer services or sells parts for them.
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The Plustek scanners are the best film scanners that are currently on the market.
![calibrate plustek scanner calibrate plustek scanner](https://mans.io/views2/1381365/f_page-38.png)
But I will tell you, to my knowledge, Nikon no longer services or sells parts for them.Ĭhris is absolutely correct. When I researched scanners before I bought this one, I found that to get a better film scanner than this you will have to buy a second hand Nikon CoolScan, now out of production.
#Calibrate plustek scanner software#
I never tried either version of the Silverfast software so I don't have an opinion on which is best. I have a Plustek 7600i that I use with VueScan. You really want IR dust and scratch removal.
![calibrate plustek scanner calibrate plustek scanner](https://www.libble.eu/bestanden1/440501/bg1a.png)
The difference is the 8200i versions (both SE and AI) have infrared dust and scratch removal. The hardware is the same.Īlso know that there is a cheaper Plustek 8100 scanner. The "AI" version has a more advanced version of Silverfast. The "SE" version is the starter version of Silverfast. The Plustek 8200i scanners are bundled with Silverfast scanning software. You can get them for about $375 to $425 NIB. The current model is the 8200 AI and it's pretty much the same unit. These have been sized for screen display, not print. These scans were made of 35mm negatives that were shot with a Canon autofocus point and shoot in 1999 using Kodak Gold 200 ASA. It all depends on "what your definition of is is". Does anyone make a decent negative/slide scanner that doesn't cost $600?